Elie Saab: Regal glamour in the Louvre

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jul 6, 2023

Dozens of royal queens marched in Elie Saab’s latest show, inspired by monarchs from history and Hollywood in its Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection shown on a wet Wednesday in Paris.

Suitably staged in a wing of a former royal palace, the Louvre. Within MAD, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, before a small army of clients, actresses and It Gals – including Olivia Palermo, Joey King, Lana Condor and Nieves Alvarez. 

Medieval mode that took its inspiration from cinematic queens such as Cate Blanchett in Elisabeth and Isabelle Adjani in La Reine Margot.  

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“I adore the glamour of yore, the majesty of queens,” explained Saab in a pre-show preview in his show room on the Champs Elysées. 
 
In his show, an early pink tulle décolleté gown covered in silk petals and tiny cock feathers recalled
Kiera Knightly in The Duchess. Before a black velvet peak-shouldered gown suggested Charlize Theron in Snow White and the Huntsman, though hopefully without her character’s crueller traits. While four princely models walked in the show too, one in a sleek tuxedo and cloak finished with abstract crystal patterns, echoing Angelina Jolie in Maleficent.
 
His finale featured a half dozen dream like columns, stunning tulle and lace ensembles embellished with bugle beads, crystals and fabric petals. A couture reverie that won Saab a standing ovation.
 
Overall, the collection was very true to Saab’s idea of couture: complex creations featuring dazzling jeweled mixes of ruby, amethyst and emerald embellishments. Coupled with finely draped velvets and dreamlike fantasy. Except this time, he reined in the embroidery and focused on a leaner silhouette and more modernist mood. And the result, was the best collection by Elie in the past half decade.
 
It’s a very busy moment for Elie’s house, who next week will fete the opening of his new boutique in One Monte-Carlo, the principality’s hottest shopping quarter. It’s an ideal spot, in the former store of the now defunct marque Ralph & Russo.
 
Saab’s interior business is also booming, with 10 construction projects in completion that offer Elie Saab branded apartments and villas in markets as widespread as the Gulf and Vietnam.
 
While in Milan, clients beat a path to Elie’s décor store, located around the corner from the Duomo, and this Phoenician couturier builds his empire of style.